Mouth-watering kebabs, scented biryani, and whipped, cloud-like desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has forever been a dream destination for epicures, with inhabitants and travelers alike swearing by its exquisite cuisine.
An International Accolade
Recently, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization honored it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – including it in a prestigious group of global cities and igniting hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's sublime food. With this status, it enters a global network of cities cities across more than 100 countries committed to promoting "artistic expression as a driver of city development that is sustainable".
The honor "is a testament to its deep-rooted food heritage and lively culinary scene," as noted by a spokesperson from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to secure a position in this highly sought-after list of 70 global destinations worldwide.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The recognition for this venerable city is little surprise to its residents or passionate food lovers. Many echo the opinion that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO recognition, this cherished, lively, and vibrant city – the administrative center of India's largest state – is at last in the limelight for what has consistently shaped its essence: an unparalleled passion for food.
"'What will be cooked, the method of preparation' is a constant discussion from waking up until going to bed in many homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are actually judged by the excellence of food that is produced in your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of Nawabs – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th Century wealthy Muslim rulers – is noted for its succulent kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were invented, perfected, and raised to sublime levels in their opulent kitchens.
These royal kitchens were hubs of culinary innovations, merging Iranian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were created. As the tale is told that the galouti kebab was created to feed an elderly nawab who had lost his teeth. His cooks ground the meat with papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so silky that it needed no chewing.
But arguably the biggest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, slow heat, with the container's cover securely sealed with dough.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Besides the well-known kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also developed a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a vegetarian's paradise.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just highlights seasonal produce but also gives the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Nearly on countless corners, there are little shops and stalls – lesser-known delights that are extremely popular with the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, huge crowds start milling around from early morning at a legendary tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, presented in earthenware cups, along with pillowy soft buns slathered with freshly churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can make their way to a simple joint situated in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was set up, the place is still in great demand for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also presents remarkable treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert found in the winter. The method of making it is precise and demanding. The vendor whisks the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its incredible frothy texture.
On crisp mornings, street vendors are often seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Some however express concern that their younger generation are unwilling to master the art.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's rich food legacy positions it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will occur only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – crafted by multi-generational food businesses, from modest street carts to busy restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is believed, will encourage more people globally to discover these narratives and experience the city to savour the culinary delights of Lucknow.
